Here’s a hint, unlike the other kind of coping you do when you spend a year living in a garage, this one doesn’t involve alcohol and mint chocolate chip icecream.Well. Okay, actually it may involve both. Particularly as a celebration if the end result means you have an almost-finished bedroom.
Baseboard is the piece of wood at the bottom of the wall that covers up the gap between the floor and the drywall.
You might think–if you’ve never done this before– that it’s a simple as cutting your baseboard pieces at a 45 and calling it a day. I thought that once too, but it turns out the correct way to install baseboard is a little more time consuming, but has much better results.
Shockingly enough, even if you’re in a brand new house there is almost no chance that your walls are perfectly square and at an exact 90-degree angle from each other. When you cope baseboard (or crown molding) one piece is installed flat against the wall, like this…
Then the right end of the piece that goes along the adjacent wall is coped, while the left end stays flat the the left corner.
If you do it this way you are only cutting right-handed cope joints (significantly easier than cutting a left-handed joint, but then again, I’m a righty) and its much easier to measure.
Here’s how you make the cut:
Step 1- The First Forty-Five
First off, I don’t measure anything to start with, I just make sure the board I’m using is long enough to work on a particular wall and make note of how much “extra” I have in case I make a mistake and need to be conservative when re-cutting it.
The first 45-degree angle should be cut in the exact way you think you’d cut a 45 if you were going to be installing the baseboard without coping it. The “outside” or decorative side of the board should be short side.
Step 2 – The Back-Cut
After you’ve lopped the end of the board off at a 45, flip the board completely around so the good side is still facing out, but it’s upside down. You’ll be using the miter saw to cut a 45 in the opposite angle of the first cut. (This means if the long side of your board was hanging off to the left for the first cut, it will be hanging off to the right for the second one.)
You want to cut exactly on the line, and only for the straight part of the board.
The blade should not go all the way through.
Saw Tip: Start the blade before you enter the wood, and keep it running until you’ve pulled the blade back out. I used to be in the bad habit of letting the blade stop while it was still in the wood, and you’ll break many a ends off a board that way.
Step 3 – The Cope
A coping saw is an absolute must for this step, and I have to admit that I was never a big fan of this kind of hand sawing. I’m a power-tool addict for a reason. However, when I first learned this method of coping on a Habitat build, the finish carpenter gave me a great tip on holding the saw loosely in my hand instead of having a death grip on it.
A lot of pre-bought baseboard will have a curve of some kind at the top. You want to keep your saw at that same 45-degree back-cut angle and follow the curve while you cute. Since we made our own baseboard out of pine 1x with a bevel in the top (courtesy of the router) I had a little more “flat space” to cut out at the top.
Here’s what the finished cut looks like from the front:
And from the back:
You can see how this fits snugly with the uncut piece.
If you have an extra long wall, you may also need to join two pieces in the middle. I like to cut these at a 45 also to minimize the seam.
Now you see it, now you don’t!
I attach baseboard using our handy finish nailer with 2″ 18 ga nails. Two nails in every stud. (For more on measuring and nailing check out these tips from my Habitat Build)
Here’s the before:
It still needs shoe molding attached to give it the final “finished” look, and after that it’s pretty obvious what I’ll be doing next… door trim!