image_alt
DIY DIVA
DIY diva
DIY diva

Drywall 101: Using Joint Compount for a Stucco Wall Finish

January 19, 2010 | 26 Comments | DIY How To
DIY diva

So here we are. Wallboard up and spackling knife in hand– ready to jump in and finish some walls. This is the part most people would rather take a whack on the head with a sledgehammer than have to complete (and the hours upon hours upon hours of sanding it requires if you go a little crazy with the mud), but put the hammers down people, I have a better, faster, more fun, less lame way of finishing your walls.

First, you need to have walls. If you’ve already got them and they’re ready to go, good for you. I’ve used joint compound to texture wood, brick, and standard drywall in dry areas without problems. If you don’t have walls already but you want some, you can check out my info on wall framing and some tips for hanging drywall by yourself.

Now, the nice thing about putting some texture on your walls is that it’s pretty forgiving for a less-than perfect tape job which means you don’t have to spend the rest of your life with sanding block, but I’ve also got some insider info on finishing joints from a pro that will help make this part less painful. And when all of that is finished, then you’re ready for some fun with mud. Let’s get a little dirty, shall we?

DSC_1384

Basically this is what you need:

  • 5 gallon bucket of joint compound – I tend to use heavyweight even though you’ll strain your back hauling it into the house and it’s a little more gluey. You can also use lightweight without the universe imploding.
  • Spare white paint or primer (just a little bit)
  • Mixer (You can do this by hand in a pinch, but it’s so much easier with a drill. And also more fun.)
  • Drywall knife – depending on the look you want 6-10″
  • 5 gallon bucket with water and a brush for cleaning up your tools

Step 1 – Mixing the Mud

I always thought this was BS, but mixing the joint compound up (even without adding water) really loosens it up and makes it much easier to work with. Since I am almost always doing this at odd hours– after work, in the middle of the night when I can’t sleep, or an hour before I have to be somewhere else– I tend to mix up small batches by putting some mud in a bucket…

DSC_0114

And adding a little bit of paint. (That was a trade secret from the pro… apparently it makes it easier to work with and gives it a better finish. Who am I to argue?)

DSC_0115

A quick spin with the mixer and it’s ready to go.

DSC_0116

Definitely don’t pull this thing out of the bucket while it’s spinning. You’d think that would be obvious, but making messes comes more naturally to some of us than others. What can I say? It’s a gift.

DSC_0118_sm

Step 2 – Test Panel

Even texturing is about having a rhythm. I feel pretty confident in my texturing skills and even I do a test panel before I start a new room to make sure I’m using the right knife and the right amount of mud for the look I want. Here are some examples:

10″ knife, thick application:

DSC_0818

6″ knife, thin application:
DSC_0119

10″ knife, thin application:
DSC_0195

Every time someone sees a wall in this state they give me the you’ve-been-inhaling-too-much-drywall-dust look, and I’ll get into the techniques of application in a minute, but once everything is primed it looks a lot more cohesive.

texture_sample

Step 3: Techniques

The trick to texturing is that whether or not you’re doing a thin application, you actually don’t need that much mud, and you don’t have to cover every square inch of wall.

This is about enough… don’t go digging your knife into the bucket and hauling out your body weight in mud to slap on the wall.

DSC_0813

Smear it on thinly, and the trick to good texture is to use uneven pressure.

DSC_0814

So push hard then light then hard then light as you move through the swipe.

THIS is way to much mud on the wall.

DSC_0807

Even 1/16″ gives you dimension. And this will only shrink and have massive cracks in it.

If you find that when you’re mudding the wall things are coming out a little too perfect…

DSC_0808

Press your knife into the spot that needs more texture…

DSC_0809

Then run it lightly over the top again.

DSC_0812

The closer you overlap your swipes of mud, the busier the wall will look. You can see in this sample I use a thin application and wide swipes for a very subtle texture:

DSC_0195

Also, change up the way you spread it on. Sometimes go from left to right, then top to bottom, then diagonal.

When finishing a room, it is best to plan to do the whole room at once. For me at least it’s hard to get in the exact same rhythm if I leave and come back. If it’s unavoidable however, I would say at least finishing a wall off is a must. Once a section of wall is dry it’s hard to go back in and overlap some texture without creating uneven spots.

Let’s recap:

  1. Not too much mud on your knife
  2. Spread it on thinly, using varying pressure
  3. Gouge it and then run your knife lightly over the top to create more texture

And there you have the deep, dark secrets of drywall texturing revealed. I know, right? Between this and the end of the Harry Potter series, what is there left to live for?

Now go forth and conquer those flat, boring walls.

 

DIY diva

Possibly Related Posts

DIY diva
DIY diva
  • Print
  • Digg
  • Facebook
  • Google Bookmarks
  • Twitter

    Comments

  • Meredith


    Looks great! Can’t wait to see what it looks like when you’ve got it painted…

    FYI – I just posted the inspiration structure for the exterior of my home – if you’re interested.

  • Kristy


    The images look great and I imagine a room done as nicely as you have done here looks fabulous…unfortunately, the previous homeowners in my place did something similiar (although not nearly as nicely) and I curse them everyday.

    Thanks for showing everyone how to do it nicely…maybe those people out there who insist on doing this will at least follow your directions so it looks good.

  • kitliz


    Kristy – You bring up a good point. Not everyone loves this texture… which is all the more reason to be subtle about it. I’d love to see pics of your “not so good” example, just to give everyone the cautionary note.

    My previous home owners did something similar… big goopy plaster swirls. They got a skim coat of this texture REAL QUICK. You may be able to do the same thing with your walls and subtle it down a little if it really drives you nuts!

  • Sara @ Russet Street Reno


    No sanding? SOUNDS GREAT! It also is a great way to cover up messed up walls, I want to see the finished product!

  • Erin J


    How do you paint over this? Spray? I like the texture and am considering it for a single concrete bedroom wall in my basement. The other three walls will be drywalled. Can I use joint compound on the poured concrete wall? Will it stick?

  • Carmen


    I love this finish, it covers so many sins. Funny thing, drywall contractors charge a lot for it (they call it “old world” or “skip trowel”), even though it means they have to put in less effort to make it look good. I had it as an option on a couple townhome village projects I managed the construction of out west.

    Just found your blog today. Love it when I find chicks who aren’t afraid of power tools. I try to tell women I know (who complain that their husbands aren’t getting projects done on their homes) to buck up and do it themselves, but they always seem so dang aprehensive.

    • Kel


      ROFL….you should hear my hubby when I get tired of waiting for him to finish a “project” aka remodeling. I tell him I will do it myself and he tells me he will divorce me. Seven years and spare bedroom is still not done. Last month I figured if I wanted to combine the kitchen and dining room with built in island and cabinets I would have to take matters into my own hands. He got a text from me a few hours after he went (April 25, 2011) to work showing a major hole in the wall between kit and din and when he got home almost all the din side was removed. My “project” is almost complete now, he has helped some but I have done the majority of the work. I even made the blue prints and 3D images using my adobe AI program so that he sees what I am doing. My cabenits are Lowes cheap finish yourself ones, which I did in golden pecan, I have planes for a built in china closet and the finish will be pine tongue in grove. I figure do to money restrainst to be done by end of july. Not bad proving the point if you want something done then get up and do it yourself because most men can’t get past the me Tarzen you Jane thinking. Or is it the woman can’t get past I would break a nail…mine are an inch long and they don’t stop me from doing anything.

  • kitliz


    Erin J- You can just use a roller to paint, it goes on fine! (You might want to get a thicker roller, but you really don’t even need to.)

    If you’re doing this in a basement the trick is that you don’t want any moisture getting to the joint compound, because that would be a mess. I think you could do this right over the concrete walls as long as they were free of dirt or anything else that would keep the mud from “Sticking”

    Carmen-
    A-men sister.

  • Chris A


    This is a great primer on using drywall joint compound which I hate to do but find that every house we’ve renovated needs it to some extent.

  • Janelle


    Hi! Just found you with a google search on using joint compound! :) We have a room in our house that was a patio and is now enclosed. So – can you tell I’m working up to asking some advice? Some of the walls are cinderblock and some of the walls are the old stucco exterior walls of the house. I would love to get a uniform finish on this. Do you think the joint compound, with proper preparation, might be a solution? Thanks if you are able to get back to me.

  • Mo


    You ROCK!!! I have several home improvement projects going on. I am focusing on finishing them one at a time. I recently built a wall to cover some pipes we had to run up through the corner of a room. I have to say…the wall turned out great and I feel EMPOWERED!! Building that wall and having it turn out so well makes me feel like I can tackle ANYTHING! Thank you for being so inspirational to other women!

  • Tina


    This was great and exactly what I needed. My husband and I gutted out basement (it was never finished out right to begin with) and we have most of our drywall up. We are doing it in 3 sections so that we have working room. We just finished up the texturing on our first section and I have to say, this was so easy and we achieved great results. I am so glad that I came across your website – it has really inspired us to get the job done and the textured walls definitely add character to the room. :) Thank you so much!

  • Alex


    Did you use the pre-mixed all purpose joint compound (5 gal buckets) or did you mix a different weight mud?

    • kitliz


      Alex, I usually use the heavyweight premixed stuff. I recommend mixing it with a paddle bit no matter what, but if you want a thinner texture I use a separate 5 gal bucket and mix some primer and some water in to thin it out a little. I’m going to update this with some additional pictures and directions for that soon! Let me know if you have any other questions.

      • Alex


        Thanks! I’ve had this bookmarked for about a year now. I’ve finally got around to painting our living room and the 75 year old plaster ceiling is going to get this faux stucco finish to cover over years of visible crack repairs.

        Do you prefer the 12/10 inch mud knife or a masonry trowel, ala skip trowel method?

  • jeannine


    Thanks for posting this! We lived in San Antonio, Texas, and visited many parts of Europe, where this is THE texture of the thick walls there. For the life of me, I’m stunned by how few people know about this. You can do a lot of things with joint compound and then call it “old world”– and using a paint/glaze mixture gets to be called “Venetian plaster”. Looks amazing. We’ve gotten lots of compliments on our glazed/patina walls that were really done mostly with joint compound making this type of finish.

    Plus, we felt we had to do something creative b/c there was wallpaper everywhere in our house from the previous owner. When we removed it, even with professionals, there was so much wall damage the contractor “offered” to re-do the whole drywall (for a large fee). I said “no thanks” and did this skipped trowel thing you’ve done here. (Also works for wood panelled walls!) QUESTION: how hard is it to get a totally smooth wall finish? Isn’t it just less of the “skipping” and a more even application, and then some serious sanding? I see why it’s not as appealing (in terms of sanding) but it IS achievable, correct? Why don’t more drywall guys make smooth walls instead of relying on sprayed “orange peel texture”? THANKS FOR POSTING THIS…

  • Mary


    I’m simply drooling at your mad skills! I’m old enough to be your mom, and only in the last 10 years did I discover that I like to do stuff like this too! Having so much fun, though I’m nowhere as prolific or skilled as you!

    On the wall texturing, to soften the look I used a slightly damp sponge after the compound dries to knock down the sharpness of the texturing or correct any areas. That’s if you prefer a less defined look of course.

    That and tiling are about as adventurous as I’ve gotten, but confidence is building. Thanks for taking time to blog and for letting us live vicariously through your work!

  • Kel


    OMG, I have used joint compound with a paint roller over some of the most god awful surfaces and materials you ever want to see and have come up with some of the most delighful designs. Mixing the compound with 123 base coat seals the compound and keeps moisture issues down. I did my kitchen 10 years ago this way and have had not one ounce of trouble with the moisture. My house is over 130 years old and part of the walls were covered with…believe it or not….lenolium (sorry if spelled wrong). you got to love old houses built by imagriants, they used every thing, even card board boxes in the walls.

    Do practice a bit to get a flow going and work fast so you don’t get dry spots and pull up to much off your designe.

  • Christian


    Wow, I love it. Every year in college, back in the 90′s, we would rent out old houses in Pittsburgh that needed serious repair. The first thing I would do is buy a 5 gallon bucket of Joint compound and go to town. LOL, I covered every square inch but see that you don’t really have to.

    One question, I am about to do a project again but people have been telling me plaster plaster… what is the main diff in JC and plaster?

    thanks.

  • Berenice


    can you do this on wall panel?

    • Kel


      are you talking the 4×8 sheets that is like thin plywood? Personaly I am no expert but if that is what you are talking about I would get some scrap and try it out. Since it is made of thin plys and the jont compound is water base you may get some seperation between top and next layer down. Joint compound is not light. Also you have to consider how flexable the panel is. If you can push on it and it bows in then you will end up with a wall that will crack or flake at the first major bump.

  • Teresa


    I need some help! My husband and I used the compound in our bathroom and it has turned out gorgeous!!! Going to do another room next-we had a lot of fun doing it! BUT-we do have a part where it I’m guessing went on too thick and we have cracks-a lot of them around the top of our shower area. Whats the best way to fix that?

    • Kel


      yep joint compound will shrink when it drys, thus the cracks. Dip your finger in wet compound and rub it in the cracks and let it dry …. like the old trick of toothpast in the nail hole. If you roll it on again….keep checking for cracks and just dip your finger in water or use a damp cloth or spunge and rub over the crack and smooth it together. Make sure you use a good base coat like 1-2-3 to seal it before putting your top coat on. Moisture in time will break down the compound.

      • Teresa


        Great!! Thank you!

    • Kit


      Kel has a great suggestion Teresa. It does happen when you get the compound too thick. I’ve also been known to fill in cracks with a little addl joint compound and really lightly sand it if necessary (not enough to take any of the texture off though!)

  • monica


    i am soooo bookmarking your site!
    how awesome that i found your site, thank you so much! i’m a single woman with a house full of character, and am happy to utilize your know-how to do some improvements.
    i have a big basement room with bumpy ugly sheetrocked walls. have a feeling the previous peeps had teenagers doing a mosh pit down there, big holes “repaired” bumpy and rough! now i can fix em all myself!

DIY DIVA BLOG